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Chapter 363

In the south of Kunming City, pass Dianchi Lake, go to Yuxi, and cross Shiping. Along the way, the sun is bright and the mountains are gentle. Sometimes, there may be a flash of crimson and naked soil, making the heart warm and relaxed. Yunnan, this horizon, has a kind of dispersion that is different from Guizhou and Sichuan.

Before sunset, everyone arrived at Jianshui. This small western city began in the Song Dynasty, was built in the Yuan Dynasty, and flourished in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. In the 13th century, the Yuan Dynasty's army entered Gansu, passed Sichuan, entered Yunnan, and pacified the Dali Kingdom. The Yuan Dynasty will govern the Han Dynasty with the Han Dynasty, build temple schools, and move to a large number of old and young people in the Southern Song Dynasty. They also renamed the place Lin'an, with a hint of joke.

Hundreds of years later, the future generations have forgotten where my hometown is. However, there are still clues to the living and life.

There are three most famous foods in Yunnan: mushroom rice noodles, and the first two are spread all over the place, except the air pot chicken. The chicken is the Chuxiong Wuding line hen, and the pot is the Jianshui purple pottery gas pot. The pot is heated by a hollow tube core, and the distillation is without water. The soup is clear as water, the stars are dotted with oil, and the chicken fragrance is blowing on the face.

Unlike porcelain and lacquerware, pottery is born in a simple and simple way. It is often used to pinch clay and sculpt, burn it into pottery dishes, and use it to cook rice. However, ordinary things can produce a lot of spiritual energy after years of accumulation.

The surname Tian is a master in Jianshui Tao Store. Tian Bo and Tian Jing are the heads of Tao Chaju and Tian Ji Kiln. Two middle-aged people in their early forties are engaged in a process that has been around for nearly a thousand years. The Tian family's kiln factory is in Shiyao Village, where kilns have been burning for generations, and to the small path of the village, there is a whole pastoral area.

The scalpers were looking for food in the fields and slowly passed by the small train towards Tuanshan. A Yuan Dynasty arch bridge lies across the entrance of the village. The Tianji Kiln factory was not big, and it was divided into two areas: mud control and shape control. There was a green pine tree in the middle, and the underside of the tree was filled with steaming clay.

Jianshui clay is made of local five-color soil, and is soaked and stewed. After twelve years of processes, the effort and time are spent enough. Touch a handful of clay essence, and the crimson red melts at the fingertips. It is fine until the moisture is dry and there is no floating powder. When the sun shines, it looks like gold edges.

The clay material was qualified to be made and then began to be made. The factory was five or six meters high, and the mud embryos were arranged neatly. The man was responsible for waking the mud and pulling the embryos, and the woman was responsible for decorating the embryos and carving them carefully. The masters sat around the masters, teaching by example. After a while, there was no joke. People and mud were here quietly waiting for the final peaceful moment.

The firing of purple pottery gas pot is the same as that of porcelain making, and is both quenched at high temperature. The mud that has been tempered by fire is transformed; the pot that is repeatedly kneaded is tightly tight; the surface is like baby's skin, which is shiny and moist, and is full of pores; chicken pieces are placed inside, distilled in water, absorb heat and absorb air and take it fast, mellow but no odor, and the table is used to disperse the temperature and is extremely slow, which is called cultivating positive energy.

Walking along the main road Lin'an Street, we pass through the city. On the east side, there is a tall crimson main gate tower standing upright. In the morning, people roasting the sun were sitting everywhere in the city tower square, walking birds and playing chess and setting up stalls, and housewives walked through the city gate in colorful ways.

I walked along the red mud wall waterjingfang in the alley next to the city tower, and then I turned a few times and arrived at the inn where I was staying. Before I could cross the threshold, a fat girl jumped out from behind the screen wall and took the box with a smile. Walking in, I entered the courtyard, with a wing room in the east and a cross courtyard in the west, with green trees and red fish, and the space was compact and warm.

There are three people guarding the four guest rooms in the inn. A waiter in his twenties, an Yunnan girl, has been a slim and lively since elementary school. She is a fat girl who works as a friend. She is responsible for repairing, cleaning, selling favors, and taking care of the thrush in the middle courtyard is Uncle Li.

The native Jianshui people were roasted by the plateau sunshine all year round and looked black and red. When they were young, they took their brothers to work together, especially when they repaired old houses.

Jianshui streets and alleys are neat, ancient houses are scattered, and the carved dragon pillars on the hip roof in the huge Confucius Temple have been expanded 50 times in previous dynasties. There are many rich families living in the past three years, and there are many courtyards. The once richest mansions have been passed down from generation to generation by Zhu Family Garden, which is more than three or four hundred houses, and has more than 200 rooms. On the historical stage, high-rise buildings have been set up to welcome guests, each brick and a mortise, all of which is passed down by craftsmen from generation to generation.

In the early autumn sun, the alley was shining with black ceilings, and under the shade, men gathered together to smoke and make fun of birds and bet on cards. Uncle Li ate at home, walked to the inn, greeted him all the way, and did not stop. He only arrived at a 500-year-old Huangdi Temple, and always had to go in to help. The younger generation responsible for the repair was introduced by him.

The old rules in the inn were most common in the capital in the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China. The shop helped the guests to order takeout at the big restaurant, and the products were produced in exquisite varnish. The owner specially set up a place, set up a mat and cloth table, and added a few toast dishes so that the guests could hold a night banquet without leaving the house.

Not far from the inn, there is the best cooking pot restaurant in Jianshui. The Jianshui cooking pot is between Beijing Shabu and Jiangsu and Zhejiang hot pot. It is a typical taste of transplanting into Yunnan with the Han civilization. The copper pot is full of fire, and the tofu, ham, local chicken, lotus balls and yellow kitchen knives are arranged in a neat way, and the heat is strong and fragrant.

Walking through the alleys of the ancient city, you can see the well in three or five steps. Unlike the old wells that were mostly sealed in Hangzhou, Suzhou, the wells of Jianshui are still vivid. As long as the weather is good in the morning, you can always see three or two housewives washing clothes by the well. A small plastic bucket is thrown upside down into the well, and a pool of clear water is carried upside down.

There are many wells, and the uses are also detailed. The Huanyi Well is salty and the tea-making well is the least sweet. The first of the wells is Puboquan next to Xizheng Street, the west gate of the city. The wellhead is huge, and the surrounding walls and ground are covered with stone slabs. Under the erosion of time, mottled and smooth coexist. The old moss in the gaps are not seen in new green. A thin layer of green color under the sun makes the pond water refreshing.

The Ximen Tofu Shop is located next to the wall. The female workers in the room guard a large basin of wells and dotted tender tofu. They quickly wrapped it tightly with gauze. They were air-dried and fermented for three or five days. They were golden, soft, fat, tender and fragrant. No one could count how many pieces of Ximen Tofu should be eaten in Jianshui City in a day. Just eat one, bake it.

Baked tofu never comes on the table, but it is not an ordinary traveler. It is mostly a baking tray that is one meter square, placed in the courtyard of the big restaurant, baked with a fire below, and is filled with golden tofu, and is guarded by a dedicated person. Diners gather at the stall before lunch, and huddle onto a small plastic stool.

In Johnson's eyes, baking tofu is definitely a meticulous job of watching the eyes. The black iron bars are grilled shiny. The stall owner takes care of every corner, and the tender yellow tofu is slowly roasted to a bulge yellow. The old customers here don't use chopsticks. They press the tofu lightly with their fingertips, and their hands feel soft. They pinched it regardless of the hot sauce. They dipped it in the sauce, tear open the teeth, and wrapped the bean fragrance with a hot air. They couldn't stop eating dozens of times.

The stall owner there was silent and counting grains of corn, which was not bad at all. Over time, the host and the guest chatted and chatted, and the fireworks in the small town turned into appetite and swallowed them.

There are many natural bridges. There are hawkers selling rice noodles in the west of the bridge, and some butchers opening meat markets in the east of the bridge. In order to save money, vendors and barons want to eat enough, they learn to be like Mengren’s pork pot.

Buy rosary meat from the meat market, buy rice noodles with vendors, and go into small restaurants to make thin slices. Buy a large bowl of boiling meat soup for a few more money. Cook the thin slices of meat, mix them with chopped green onion, ginger, leeks, chili peppers, and put a small bowl of rice noodles. Heat a large bowl to eat thoroughly. It is cheap and delicious, and gradually spreads. When people cross the bridge, the rice noodles also cross the bridge, and turn into a bridge rice noodles.

Although it originated here, there is already a precious process everywhere. However, no matter how others spread or modify it, the authentic cross-bridge rice noodles have never been out of Jianshui, just because there is a vegetarian code and grass buds.
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